North Cascades National Park

After a well deserved nights rest, we packed up our camp at Marblemount and headed to North Cascades National Park. The mountains were huge, the snow covered peaks glorious. The further we drove through the park, the more the mountains turned from snow covered peaks to tall granite spires. 

Soon after we drove through Washington Pass, we pulled over to look at our first few objectives, South Early Winter Spire, and Liberty Bell. These tall glorious stone spectacles would be my first multi-pitch rock climbs!

After getting back in the van, we headed for Fun Rock in Mazama. We stopped at the Mazama store, a neat general store/gas station that was pretty fancy for it's country location. We would frequent this store for treats all week. 

Upon our arrival at Fun Rock, a sport climbing area, we roped up and warmed up. I top roped a climbed that to my eye looked to be about 5.8, but our guide later told me it was 5.10a, higher then I had ever climbed. 

We later moved on to a different section of the crag. I top roped a route that was very new. When I found out it was a 5.11a, I didn't think I could possibly climb it, but gave it a shot anyway. Although I weighted the rope a few times, I did climb it! I hope to get another chance to try and climb it clean, but never got the opportunity. Later, we practiced multi-pitch climbing in preparation for tomorrow's climb on South Early Winter Spire. 

After an enjoyable and relaxing afternoon of cragging, we drove to Winthrope, WA to get groceries. We then decided to stop and get pizza. Being from New Jersey and kind of a snob when it comes to bagels and pizza, the pizza was terrific! 

We camped at Klipchuck campground for the night and would spend several more nights there as well. 

On Monday we headed to South Early Winter Spire to climb the South Arete route. The

 approach was fairly short but very steep up snow from an avalanche several weeks previous. Once we reached the base of the climb we changed into our climbing gear, put our packs and boots up high so the mountain goats wouldn't eat them. The goats flocked to our area as soon as we left the ground! 

The scariest part of the climb was crossing a knife ridge. Although exposed, it was a simple crossing. Standing on top was glorious! It was sunny, clear and warm. We descending by rappelling and quickly reached the ground. We packed our gear up and hiked out. 

Tuesday we drove up and hiked into Liberty Bell which we would climb by the the Becky Route. An area classic, the climb starts at the top of a couloir. Blustery and cold, I put all the layers I had on. We climbed up through an awesome chimney and when I arrived on the belay ledge, the warm sun hit me. We opted to do a variation of the route and go up a crack system. By the time we reached the top of the climb, my layers had shifted and my harness was hanging very loose. I quickly tightened it up. 

South Early Winter Spire is the tall spire at left and Liberty Bell is the tall spire on the right.

We rappelled off the best climb of my life and quickly descended back to our van. That evening, Matt and I planned our expedition, which was to climb Silver Star Mountain and Burgandy Spire. 

On Wednesday we hiked in, the hike being up extremely steep dusty trail, gain 2,000 feet in about a mile and a half. Only the last 5 minutes of walking were on snow. Once we arrived at the area where we would make camp, we sat and relaxed. We were talking and I said that I had absolutely no desire to climb Silver Star Mountain because it would be just as big a slog as Baker was. We decided upon only doing Burgandy Spire. 

The rest of the afternoon was spent napping in the sun and relaxing. A good dinner of baked beans and rice was followed by an early bed time, piling 3 people in a tent for 2.  

We left camp around 8 AM. I led the hike up to the start of the route, up steep, hard pack snow. The route started off more technical then the guide book had stated and didn't get easier. As the day went by, it got colder, the ceiling dropped and it started to snow on and off. The climb was a lot of scrambling over loose rock and the intense wind and cold we hadn't been prepared for brought us to a decision to bail off the route. We learned a lot from this experience and quickly returned to the warmth of our camp. We quickly packed up camp and hiked out. I moved slow down the steep hill. Every time I got moving a little quicker I would slip on the dust and nearly face plant. I took the descent very slowly but we quickly made it back to the van. We returned to Winthrope for pizza and camped again at Klipchuck campground, where I discovered I had put a huge tear in my inflatable Therm-a-rest. I was lucky enough to borrow one from Matt and slept quite soundly. 

Friday brought the end to the first section of the trip. We packed up camp and had breakfast at the Mazama store and drove the 3 hours back to Bellingham. 

The thing I learned from this trip that was most valuable was not related at all to climbing, but some simple that will help me for life. Mary, the guide noticed that I walked with my feet bent out. Knowing of my knee problems, she said that I needed to walk with my feet straight and I should have any issues. On several occasions, my knee became very sore, but I started walking with very straight feet, and the pain vanished quickly. 

Tomorrow I will depart for part 2 of my apprenticeship with climbing. More to come in several weeks!